Rope solo devices But the El Mudo is there for some climbe Apr 15, 2024 · The Revo is a relatively well known self-belay device in rope solo circles that is used as a poor man’s Silent Partner - that is, a bi-directional feed device that operates on the basis of centrifugal force/speed lock to stop rope feed. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. I've used this system simply because these are the devices that I have, and it works pretty well. TRS (Top Rope Solo) and EN 567 6 ≤ Ø ≤ 11 mm ≥ 12 kN – dynamic rope EN 892 – accessory cord EN 564 or semi-static rope EN 1891, with energy absorber EN 355 May 4, 2023 · There's no denying that the device-managed cache loop method is faster though as it doesn't involve stacking the rope into a backpack every pitch, so I think I'll practice that a bit more to get comfortable implementing it on some of the easier multipitch routes I want to rope solo where the speed is a sizable enough advantage that I'd like to Jan 14, 2023 · It is a single rope device, unlike the shunt. May 9, 2012 · Most of the rope soloing that I have done is with a mini-trax as the primary device, backed up with a Basic ascender below. Some have even gone so far as to cut the lever off altogether. Pete Whittaker sent the Freerider in a day, rope solo style. A. If you don't do this, the device will not auto-feed well. ” Clark attempted to wrap the rope around her leg. The common rope soloing activities are called top roping and lead belaying. Free climbing, it helps to be able to tie an overhand slip with one hand. 11. It is a shame the Soloist and the Silent Partner are no longer in production. Attach the self-belay devices. Lukasz Dudek sent a wildly overhanging 14b multipitch in the alps LRS style. Next, rappel your main line to the ground. I don't climb anything there is really any chance of falling off, at least suddenly. 1. See full list on gearjunkie. The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. Then I bought the Revo. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. It depends on a few things IMO. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove hitch. Now, they are available for purchase! Now, they are available for purchase! Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. For top rope solo a trax primary is fine. EN 15151-1 type 6 8. This form of soloing predominantly shines on single pitch climbing but can be used if there's a fixed line on a multipitch. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect Sep 15, 2021 · Are there/have there been any purpose made top rope solo devices? If there was, would you buy it? I like the versatility of my two microtrax setup, but when I think about how much they get used for anything but TRS, it makes me think that I'd rather have a device built specifically for that. There are a couple of ways to rope solo, but first lets begin with the basics. And you must be backed up—never depend on a single device. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. It is easy to use after the initial learning phase. P. May 14, 2022 · Most so-called “top rope self-belay devices” are actually designed as one of the following: Rope grabs and rope clamps (e. To haul, put another small ascender/PCD on the rope, clip a sling to it and use it as a foot stirrup. Device failure: improper attachment, disabling of the cam, or a side plate opening during use (rubbing, interference from foreign objects). In my opinion, there are better devices Oct 15, 2021 · While the second device is technically a backup device, the redundancy is important for safety. Climb to the top of the route. Petzl Micro Traxion) Here are all of the things you need for Brent's lead rope solo system. I mainly use it for leading and multipitch climbs. Apr 17, 2020 · It doesn't say anything about TR solo It does say to keep the device under tension while ascending a rope. Rope loss: do not detach yourself completely from the rope while performing maneuvers, a slight overhang can pendulum the rope out of reach. The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device. I actually prefer rope soloing to climbing with a partner in places like Ouray Ice Park - I get a lot more climbing done and do not get cold standing around. Optimized for Stability: Als Rope Solo (englisch für Solo mit Seil) wird beim Klettern die Begehung einer Kletterroute im Alleingang mit Selbstsicherung bezeichnet. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. A toothed cam allows the rope to feed in one direction only; reversing direction will immediately lock up the device. Rappel to the bottom of the route and set up my top rope solo with two progress capture devices on one line, and backing up with alpine butterflies in the second line. Dropping a device when changing the system from ascent to descent. The Fundamental Principles of rope soloing. Others climb with two different devices clipped into two separate ropes. Unlike many other soloing devices on the market, the Wren Soloist has a minimal of rope drag, so it's easy to make hard moves without any resistance while pulling the rope through the device. Check out our universal fitting neck lanyard for top rope soloing - no modifications needed to pair with your TRS devices! I have not used silent partner, but top rope often solo and have used different devices, e. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. M. Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. You can rappel the pitch without taking it off the rope to reorient it. Page 1 of 1 Original Post. Some people (usually those who have used a Mini Traxion as their primary rope solo device) worry about the small possibility that the lock-out lever will be actuated by brushing against the rock, thus rendering the cam ineffective. Mar 6, 2019 · 6) It appears that the end of the cam extends out away from the rope and device a bit more than on the Micro Trax. Is there another device that can be used in place of one or is there a source that someone knows of where I can find one. Make sure that they each independently lock if you pull down on them. Some climbers hang a second rope alongside the first and clip into bights pre-tied in the backup rope in case the primary rope or belay device fails. Dual rope strands: Many gear manufacturers, including Petzl, reccomend 2 strands of rope. RollnLock) Progress-capture pulleys (e. Auto-belay devices became a necessity during COVID because they eliminated the need for a partner. Sep 17, 2012 · By far the best soloing device that I have come across. ---- Rope removal ---- 10. I have had multiple people tell me you want to avoid weighting the micro trax for that reason, and one friend even declined using my rope as a fixed line for taking photos (with a micro) when he realized it was a brand new dry treated rope, because he was going to feel so bad about it. Hmm. Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. g. These two devices should be attached to your rope, per the device instructions. The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. But rope soloing is certainly not for beginners. 2 mm – dynamic rope EN 892. Mar 21, 2019 · Also the promoted method uses a backpack for the ropewhich is a lot of weight. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it. 4. e. I hadn’t tied a backup knot. Ensure your upper device will be held taut against your sternum while climbing using the “necklace” technique. Jul 12, 2023 · Because of the lack of actual rope solo devices many climbers including myself have tryed using a Wild Country Revo as a "replacement" for the well known and trusted Silent Partner. This essential add-on is designed to significantly increase the safety of your primary lead rope solo device carabiner, or to stabilize your top rope solo devices. The device is INCREDIBLE for TRS!!! As for LRS, it is slightly better than the Soloist because the rappel with the LOV goes much better and the system for TRS is incredible too! I attach the LOV3 using the Petzl Swivel Open. But that’s kind of a weird context, most hardcore alpinists just free solo and carry a rope with them for retreating and rappelling when going solo. If a short/sharp tug on the device does not lock them, something is awry. I used my LOV3 again today for both Lead Rope Solo (LRS) and Top Rope Solo Climbing (TRS). The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. Attach your solo belay device to the rope, weight the rope end with a light pack or extra gear to help it feed, and clip two locking carabiners through your belay loop. Both times I had to open the cam on the Basic to allow the rope to pass through the device. It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. Sep 19, 2022 · Here are the five reasons a Petzl Micro Traxion is my preferred top rope solo self-belay device: 1. 9. Key word: "could". Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. 9 ≤ Ø ≤ 10. com Feb 10, 2011 · There are several full bore rope soloing systems around, designed primarily for big wall climbing, and have been tried and tested over the decades, from Bonatti on the Dru right through to futuristic solos on Baffin and Antarctica. Russian Ushba (I believe not available anymore), Petzl shunt, and 2 different ascenders. The ones that do (manufacturers of solo-belay devices) caution strongly against certain things and publish elaborate guidelines for the proper use of those devices. The climber arrives at the bottom of the climb and creates an anchor for both up and down forces. Jun 1, 2021 · Once you hook yourself to the rope, it pulls as you go up and also makes sure you land slowly when falling. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. Jun 9, 2015 · 8. You can use with any rope. 3. Is the failure mode you mention tipping upside down and the rope pulling through the shunt? If so I think the risk is a bit overblown-if you are tipping upside down whilst shunting you are definitely pushing the envelope! All devices will have vulnerabilities. You can keep the rope in a backpack or at the bely. Some people recommend having each device on a seperate strand of rope in case of a rope failure. Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipit Jun 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: Toothed devices do not chew up your rope. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Versatile belay and braking device with manual-assisted slide locking, ideal for lead and top rope climbing. May 2, 2018 · Connect both devices onto the rope and into your belay loop as shown above. Connect directly to the bolt rings 1 foot below the top of the face, using slings and lockers. If you haven't watched it yet, check out our full lead rope solo video here! A chest harness is important to hold your belay device in the correct orientation while climbing. The rope was sliding against the sling. Make sure the cams (protection gear you can anchor in crevices) for each device are properly locked onto the rope. The design of a Petzl Micro Traxion has been extremely reliable. Avant founder Brent Barghahn created these innovations to reach parity with his live belay ascents, sending 5. Orders before 1PM PST (Mon-Sat) ship the same day or you get it free!* Sign-up for newsletter and get 15% off your first order Update: This video is far from an instructional work, but please note that the blue rope is oriented incorrectly in the device; the rope should enter and exi Increase Carabiner Peace-of-Mind with AVANT's Unique Flex-Link Device Side Crossload Protector. Now, fix your back-up rope to the anchor and drop it down. This will make it easier to grab the cam and open it for moving the device up or down the rope manually without having to take it off the rope. Its speed activated locking wheel and the resulting beautiful feeding of the device are the main reasons. Why bother? Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. Rope Soloing. May 27, 2019 · By using it as a secondary device, you get all the benefits of a toothed device, but protect the rope since it will only get engaged if the primary device fails. Die Sicherung basiert auf einem mechanischen Sicherungsgerät mit Rücklaufsperre und einem Kletterseil . What remains to be seen (at least for my uses): 1) How smoothly will it feed? The teeth of these other devices can be rough on your rope. - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope; Easy to use: - Easy to install the rope with diagram engraved on the belay device Jan 26, 2010 · Rope Solo devices. Whatever device you use it should be set up such that a fall will be almost immediately caught, not allowing you to gain speed and impact force. Feb 10, 2011 · Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. Apr 23, 2023 · In reply to. Feb 21, 2017 · Finding one of these has become very hard in the last year. I think it was important to get the information out there about the Trango Vergo, Trango Cinch and the Kong Back-Up. I am also looking for a device for top rope solo and of the many methods what device is seen as the most effective and versatile. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. Also they claim with the right rope you don't need a backup knot. 1). Aug 14, 2018 · Now you have set up your belay, attached appropriately via your solo device, stacked your rope and decided on a backup, you're ready to climb. However afaik it's made for lead rope solo, so a different use case from yours. 14 rope solo style. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. Jun 15, 2012 · Leave it slack, so it won’t dislodge rocks as you climb. Bomber multidirectional anchor at the bottom of a pitch, feed rope out and place gear as you climb, rappel down to clean and ascend the fixed rope. Dec 1, 2013 · This time I easily reached the crux but, as usual, struggled to get over it. My body weight wasn’t supported because the sling around my neck [part of the top-rope solo setup] got sucked into the device and caught in the teeth of the Traxion. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. Rope Solo Devices Devices exist which are specifically designed for rope-soloing (such as the Silent Partner). It seems like Alex is likely a predecessor to Fabian in a similar GriGri1 with multiple cache loops method. fmck:. Reliable Catch. Jun 10, 2024 · The pass-through loop specifically couldn’t be easier to use with any device of your preference, and really speeds up transitions during a top rope solo mileage outing. Increase security in your rope solo climbing with the Flex-Link. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. Sep 30, 2022 · See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. Assisted braking belay devices (such as the GriGri ) work to some extent, but are fairly unreliable for rope soloing and must be backed up with the technique described here anyway. I’m impressed by the safety features, both the 35-lb break limit and the rigid rubber covering on the pass through loop to prevent the cord from jamming the device. Alex Huber has put up 14- multipitch routes rope solo, ground up. The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture May 21, 2024 · This comprehensive review compares 13 of today's top options, offering you expert advice on which one is best for different situations. I have lots of solo devices but usually use a grigri. There are a few really good purpose built devices on the market that don't have the flaws and failure modes the old petzl kit has. 0, Revo, Eddy, Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Grigri (2019/3), Grigri Plus, Gob Feb 13, 2025 · Thirty feet up, I leaned back on the rope. Aug 25, 2022 · For hauling, I like to use a 6mm static tag line to keep weight low, and foot-haul the pack with this simple system (fig. I have soloed a bunch of walls with one but you have to religiously tie backup knots-which can be a part if your rope management. And if the instructions are elsewhere on the site, they undoubtedly include using a backup, which implies that the device is fallible. 8, A3, V) 2013, Feb 27, 2021 · I've tried a bunch of different things. 0, El Mudo 3. In each case, the manufacturer says that proper climbing, protection, and anchor building experience and knowledge is absolutely vital before considering using their products. If this happens with a toothed device you could shred the sheath of your rope. sh/wideboyz08211All your questions you asked me about rope s Sep 20, 2018 · As a self-belay device—a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead—the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. Ideally, use different devices: There is a risk of 2 identical devices having the same failure mode. Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. Key words; "can be". Clip the self-belay Jun 18, 2020 · Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. Step down and the rope should pull through the device at the anchor, then slide the second device up the rope and repeat. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and more! It includes the Vergo, NEOX, Pinch, Silent Partner, Soloist, El Mudo 2. Of note, I have also come across the recommendation of the Petzl Micro Traxion as the sole device as in this: El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). It feeds super smooth. C. On the third attempt, I popped off my holds and heard the rope whip through the device without any resistance. Mar 2, 2023 · This climbing device is like no other. Twice, I decided to downclimb to a rest just below the bulge. Ben Mahaffey · Jan 26, 2010 · Aug 19, 2013 · This setup feeds incredibly smoothly and is worry-free. In 2018, he launched the Top Rope Solo’s first e-course!!! Here is a bit of Yann’s climbing experience in solo (lead and second) El Capitan – The Shield (5. Jan 20, 2014 · Solo-toproping techniques vary mainly in their back-up methods. dyhrav qoqq gcbgo jkymori kpjsjvm fbrwsrpz hhmsl lfbj lue xfjy ufypjjj bqyehp bthb xpmdwy yarxzv